 Beginner FAQ: Equipment
All fish stores sell tank setups containing ``everything you need'' for
one price. However, a smart shopper looks carefully at what the
package contains to be sure it includes only what you need (and
doesn't include things you don't). Packages vary from store to store,
some are more appropriate than others. Be especially wary of setups
bought at discount stores (e.g., ``Hartz'' brand). They often include
obsolete technology, noisy pumps, cheap heaters, etc.
Garage sales are a great way to get into the hobby cheaply. However,
a few cautions are in order. Before buying the tank, examine it
closely for cracks or scratches. Although cracks can be fixed, doing
so is more hassle (for a beginner) than it is worth. Don't buy a
scratched tank; algae will grow in the scratches making the tank look
bad. Be wary of really old equipment. It may no longer work well.
Before setting up the tank (especially if the tank is used), check it
for leaks. Fill it with water outside and leave it for a week. A
leak on your carport is a lot less of a problem than one in your
living room.
To clean the tank, NEVER use soaps or detergents. Use water and
nothing else. If you want to sterilize the tank, gravel, etc. wash
everything plastic in a mild bleach solution (use pure bleach, not one
with other additives). Rinse everything well in clean water, and let
everything soak a bit in a solution with a bit of added dechlorinator.
(Non-plastic) gravel can be sterilized through boiling.
Tons of aquarium gadgets are available at pet stores. Some are
essential, others are useful only for specialized applications, and
some are completely useless (though stores selling them probably won't
tell you that). The following checklist shows the items that will
likely to be of use to you.
Tanks come in many shapes and sizes, but there are only two types:
glass and acrylic. You will probably want to get a glass tank. In
summary:
Glass Acrylic
===== =======
cheapest per gallon more expensive per gallon
hard to scratch scratches easily (e.g. scraping algae
with razor blade)
scratches permanent scratches can be buffed out (though
not easily)
higher index of refraction lower IOR (tank distorts less when
viewed from angle)
empty tank heavy same sized tank weighs less (empty)
(important with tanks >30g)
Tank stand only needs to Special stand needed that supports
support edges entire base of tank (not just edges)
more easily broken harder to break
The size and shape of the tank is completely up to you. However, keep
the following in mind:
-
Contrary to first impressions, larger tanks are not necessarily
more work than smaller ones (within reason, see the
TABLES AND CONVERSIONS for
information on large tanks).
In particular, it is
easier to keep water chemistry stable in larger tanks than in
smaller ones (the less water, the more easily a small chemical
change causes a big change in relative concentration).
Much of the regular maintenance work does not require twice the time
for twice the size. For example, a regular partial water change
for a larger tank may
require one more bucket of water than for a small tank. That
doesn't translate into twice the work, since you already have the
bucket and siphon ready, your hands are already wet, etc.
- It is very common for people to really like their fish tank and
want to add more fish. A larger tank can hold more fish
safely. Indeed, a single 10g tank adequately supports only a handful
of medium sized fish.
- Note, however, that
the number of fish that a tank can safely hold depends not only on the
volume of the tank, but on its shape. For example, some fish spend
their entire lives near the bottom. Doubling the volume of a tank by
doubling its height won't allow you to keep more bottom dwelling
fish. Surface area is more important than volume in determining how
many fish a tank can support.
If possible, start with at 20g (or larger) rather than a 10g (or
smaller). A 20g (``high'' or ``tall'') makes an excellent first tank size.
Avoid all tanks smaller than 10g. They are simply too small to keep
healthy. For example, although many stores sell them, the tiny 1
gallon goldfish bowls are totally inadequate for even a single
fish. Stay away from them!
If you are keeping tropical fish, you will need a heater. A heater
insures that a tank doesn't get too cool, and that the temperature
stays steady during the course of the day, even when the room cools
off (e.g., at night). For many tropical fish, a temperature of 78F is
ideal.
There are two main heater types. Submersible heaters stay completely
below the water. A second, more traditional style, has a partially
submerged glass tube (which contains the heating coils), but leaves
the controls above the water. Submersible heaters are the better
design, as they can be placed horizontally along the tank's
bottom. This helps keep tank temperature uniform (heat rises), and
prevents the heater from becoming exposed while doing partial water
changes. With the traditional design, one must remember to unplug the
heater before doing water changes; if the heater is accidentally left
on while the coil is above the water, the tube gets hot and may crack
when you fill the tank back up with water.
If your room is never more than 8-10F degrees cooler than your target
tank temperature, a heater of roughly 2.5 Watts per gallon will
suffice. If the differential is higher, up to 5 Watts (or more) per
gallon may be necessary. Remember, the heater needs to keep the tank
at its target temperature, even when the room is at its coldest point;
the tank's temperature should not fluctuate.
Heaters (especially cheap ones) will fail. Most often the contact
that actually turns the heater on and off gets permanently stuck,
either in the on or off position. In the former case, your tank can get
VERY hot, especially if the heater is larger than your tank actually
requires. To minimize potential problems, avoid heaters larger than
the optimal size for your tank. To prevent winter disasters, use two
smaller heaters in parallel rather than one large one. That way if one
fails, the consequences won't be as disastrous.
You will need a thermometer to verify that your tank stays at its
proper temperature. Two types are commonly available. The
traditional bulb thermometer works the same way as the ones you can
buy for your house. They either hang from the top edge of your tank, or
float along the surface. The second common design is a flat model that
sticks to the outside of the glass. In this design, liquid crystals
activate at a specific temperature, either highlighting the numerical
temperature or a bar that slides along a scale.
Aquarium thermometers can be rather unreliable (check out the ones on
display at a fish store --- they should all register the same
temperature, but frequently don't). Thus, thermometers are good for
verifying that your temperature is not too far off, but may be off by
several degrees in some cases. When buying a thermometer, look at all
the thermometers and pick one that has an ``average'' temperature,
rather than one of the extremes.
There are three types of filtration: biological, mechanical and
chemical. Biological filtration decomposes the toxic ammonia that
fish produce as waste products. All fish tanks MUST have
biological filtration; biological filtration is the cheapest, most
efficient and most stable way to breakdown toxic ammonia. Mechanical
filtration traps such particles as plant leaves, uneaten food, etc.
(collectively known as mulm),
allowing them to be removed from the tank before they decompose into
ammonia. Chemical filtration (e.g., activated carbon, zeolite, etc.)
can remove (under limited circumstances) such substances as ammonia,
heavy metals, dissolved organics, etc. through chemistry (e.g.,
``adsorbtion'' or ``ion-exchange resins''). Chemical filtration is mostly
useful for dealing with short-term problems, such as removing
medications after they've served their purpose, or purifying tap water
before it goes into a tank. A healthy tank DOES NOT require
the use of chemical filters such as activated carbon.
One point about filtration cannot be made enough. ALL FISH TANKS
MUST HAVE BIOLOGICAL FILTRATION. Although chemical filtration can
remove ammonia under limited circumstances, it are NOT a
general solution.
Typical filters perform some or all of the three filtration types
in series. Mechanical filtration (if
present) usually comes first (where it is called a ``pre-filter''),
trapping particles that might clog remaining stages. Biological
usually comes next, followed by the chemical filtration section (if
present). Whether or not chemical filtration is useful (or even
helpful) depends on who you talk to. It can be useful for removing
fish medicines after their effectiveness has ended (partial water
changes do the same thing though). They can also remove trace
elements necessary for plant growth (with obvious results). Unless you
have a good reason to believe that your circumstances require chemical
filtration, avoid it.
Filters are not maintenance-free. For example, if debris is allowed
to accumulate in a mechanical filter, it decomposes into ammonia,
negating its primary purpose. Likewise, a biological filter's
effectiveness diminishes as it becomes clogged. Biological filtration
requires water movement across a large surface area on which bacteria
have attached (e.g., floss or gravel). The less surface area
available, the less effective the filter. UGFs are cleaned by
regularly vacuuming the gravel (e.g. while doing partial water
changes). Canister and power filters are cleaned by removing the
media and gently squeezing it in a bucket of used tank water (tap
water may contain bacteria-killing chlorine).
There is no magic formula for what size filter one needs. Consult
with specific manufacturer's ratings and be conservative. You can't
have too much filtering (though you can have too much water movement),
so err on the side of overfiltering. Filters are discussed in more
detail in a separate FILTER FAQ.
Gravel serves three main purposes. First, it serves as decoration,
making your tank look nicer. Second, if using an UGF, gravel is
mandatory as it is the filter media (the surface area on which
bacteria attach). Third, in plant tanks, it serves as a ``substrate''
(e.g. dirt) for plant roots (consult the
PLANT FAQ for details
on what quantity and type of substrate is appropriate for plants).
Ultimately, the choice of color, size, etc. is up to you. However, be
aware that dark gravel better highlights a fish's colors. Fish adjust
their colors to match that of the surroundings, and light gravel tends
to wash out a fish's true colors.
Most of the gravel sold for aquariums is plastic coated. For obvious
reasons, you should not boil it. :-) It is also very expensive ($1 a
pound). Gravel can be purchased for much less at patio stores (e.g.,
Wallmart, Home Quarters, local sand and gravel suppliers,
etc.). However, it often tends to be larger than ideal and too light
in color
(e.g., marble chips). Sand can also be used.
Be aware that not all gravel is inert. For example, coral, sea
shells, dolomite and limestone will release (leach) carbonates into the tank
raising its pH buffering capacity (see the
CHEMISTRY SECTION for
details). When keeping African rift lake cichlids, this is desirable.
But in most other cases, you will not want your gravel affecting the
water chemistry. As a quick test, drip an acid (e.g., vinegar) onto
the gravel in question. If it foams or bubbles, the gravel is going
to leach carbonates into the water. To be absolutely sure, fill a
bucket of gravel with water and measure the pH over a period of a
week. If the pH remains stable, it should be safe to use in your
tank.
When used for the first time, gravel should be washed thoroughly.
Simply rinse clean water through it until the water comes out clear
(tap water is fine). For example, put the gravel in a bucket of
water, fill it with water, and churn the gravel up. Drain the water
and repeat the procedure until the water remains clear. Before using
gravel of unknown origin (e.g., not purchased at a fish store), you
may (as a precaution) want to boil it for 15 minutes to kill unwanted
bacteria.
It is safe to place items in your tank as long as they are inert, meaning they
won't release (leach) chemicals into the water.
Most plastics are inert inert, as are glass and ceramic.
Wood may leach substances into the water, changing the pH in a
possibly inappropriate manner. Driftwood often leaches tannins and
other humic acids into the water (much like peat moss), possibly
softening it and lowering its pH. The water may also obtain a
yellowish tea-colored tint. The tint is not harmful and can be
removed by filtering the water through activated charcoal.
If you use wood that you've found yourself (e.g., woods or lake),
boil it first to kill any pathogens. Boiling it (long enough) will
also make it sink.
You will probably want to purchase lights and a hood. A hood prevents
fish from jumping out of the tank and reduces the rate at which water
evaporates. A good hood effectively seals the tank (except perhaps
where the heater and filter reside). You want as little water as
possible evaporating as it may raise the room's humidity to
unacceptable levels and requires more maintenance (i.e., you will have
to ``top off'' the tank once or twice a week to replace the lost water).
There are two styles of hoods. Full hoods combine the light and hood
as a single unit. Hoods include space for only 1 or 2 (parallel)
fluorescent light tubes, which is fine for fish-only tanks, but not
usually enough for growing plants.
Glass ``canopies'' cover the tank
with two strips of glass connected by a plastic hinge, but don't
include lighting. A separate strip (or other) light is used in
conjunction with it. Canopies are a bit better for plant tanks than
full hoods; one can upgrade or change the lighting without replacing
the entire hood, and
in situations where very high wattage is needed, one can usually fit more
light bulbs directly above the tank.
Light serves two purposes. It highlights and shows off your fish's
colors and provides (critical) energy for plants (if present).
Unfortunately, the two purposes conflict somewhat. In a fish-only
tank, a single low-wattage fluorescent bulb suffices and does a good
job of showing a fish's true colors (most fish don't like bright
lights either). If you want to grow plants, however, more light is
needed, and the bulb's spectrum becomes an issue; be sure to
consult the lighting sections in the
PLANT FAQ before purchasing your
light and hood setup.
Whether or not you will be growing plants, fluorescent lights are the
way to go. Incandescent bulbs give off too much heat, causing your
tank to overheat in the summer. Fluorescent bulbs run cooler and use
less electricity for the same amount of light. Note that in the summer
time, even fluorescent lighting can produce enough heat to lead to
tank overheating problems, if your house gets warm (e.g, you live in
the tropics and don't have air conditioning).
Unfortunately, light grows not only plants, but algae. If your tank
contains lots of the kind of light plants desire, and there are no
plants, algae quickly fills the void. Thus, the ideal lighting for
fish-only tanks differs significantly from that for a plant tank. Two
components of light are of particular importance: intensity (i.e.,
wattage) and spectrum. Plants require intense light and certain
spectral ranges produce more growth than others.
Different types of bulbs give off light in different spectral regions.
So-called ``full-spectrum'' bulbs attempt to reproduce the sun's full
spectral range. They are good both for growing plants and bringing
out a fish's natural colors. Specialized ``plant'' bulbs (e.g.,
gro-lux, etc.) emphasize a spectral range that stimulates plant
growth. Such bulbs grow plants (and algae!) well, but fish don't look
quite right under them, because the light does not have the spectrum
of normal sunlight. The common ``cool white'' bulbs give off light
designed for humans in windowless offices; they neither grow plants
particularly well, nor bring out a fish's natural colors. As a quick
rule of thumb, 2-4 watts/gallon of full-spectrum (or specialized
``plant'') lighting is good for plants; for fish-only tanks, use less
than 1 watt/gallon, and avoid using plant bulbs.
A powerhead is a water pump that runs completely submerged in a tank.
They typically attach to the ``lift tubes'' associated with UGF filters,
pulling water through the lift tube. The stream of outgoing water can
usually be oriented in (almost) any direction, and it is common to
point them in such a way that water circulates throughout the tank and
stirs up or ``agitates'' the surface a bit.
An air pump simply bubbles air through your tank. Air pumps serve two
purposes. First, they insure that your tank maintains an adequate
concentration of oxygen. An air pump is NOT required for this
purpose, as long as your tank maintains adequate water movement
together with surface agitation. This is generally the case if
external (e.g., box or cannister) filters are used. Second, air pumps
can be used to force water through a filter (e.g., sponge or corner
filter). If using a UGF, for example, an air pump produces bubbles
that force water up the uplift tubes, pulling water through the
filter. In larger tanks, powerheads perform the same function. Thus,
an air pump is not required, provided your tank has good water
circulation.
You will need some sort of stand on which to place your tank. The
stand can either be specially designed to hold your tank, or existing
furniture. The first thing to consider is whether your chosen stand
can support the tank's weight. When full of water, tanks weigh a
LOT (the water alone weighs roughly 10 lbs/gallon).
Consult
THE TABLES in the INTRODUCTARY FAQ
for detailed specs on common aquarium sizes.
If you live in an older or cheaply constructed home, give
consideration to how weight is distributed among the stand's
supports. The larger the surface area of the leg stands, the less
instantaneous pressure (per square inch) on the floor. You don't want
the stand to crash through your floor! If you plan to have a large
tank (e.g., 55g or more), be sure the floor itself can properly
support the weight. For big tanks, try to place the tank
perpendicular to the floor joists (so that the weight is distributed
over multiple joists). Placing your tank near a load bearing wall is
also safer than placing in the middle of your floor.
Stands should keep the tank level, in order to keep weight distributed
properly. An un-level tank places stress in the wrong places,
increasing the odds of having the tank break (yes, this does actually
happen sometimes). In order to more evenly distribute weight on the
stand, it is a good idea to place a 1/4 inch sheet of Styrofoam between
the stand and the tank.
There are two kinds of plants (depending on who you talk to): real and
plastic. Both kinds provide decoration and hiding places for
fish. Plastic plants are (obviously) easier to maintain. Although it
is possible to grow real plants in an aquarium, it is not always
trivial to do so (e.g., plants have special lighting requirements).
If you are at all interested in trying to grow real plants, consult
the PLANT FAQ
before purchasing your tank --- especially the hood.
Siphoning is the easiest way to remove water from a tank. For large
tanks, using a ``water python'' or other long hose allows one to
dispense with the bucket and siphon water directly into a drain or
outside garden. When removing water via siphoning, you should also
clean (``vacuum'') your gravel. Many ``water changing'' hoses are
available at local fish stores and include a gravel cleaning
attachment.
The basic idea behind them is to connect a wide mouthed tube to the end of
the siphon hose. When the tube is plunged into the gravel, the water flow
churns up the gravel, but only the detritus (dirt, mulm, etc) is light enough
to be siphoned out.
Note that the dirty water being removed from your
tank contains nitrates, which make an excellent fertilizer for your
flower or vegetable garden.
To remove algae from the side of your tank, a plastic, non-soapy
scouring pad can be used. If you have an acrylic tank, be especially
careful that the pad isn't hard enough to scratch the side. Many
types of algae can be wiped free using the floss inserts made for
Whisper filters (cheap and can't scratch).
Some of the slower growing algae simply can't be removed with a
scouring pad without a lot of work (and churning of the tank!). A
razor blade works best at this point. Go to your local fish store and
purchase a scraper that has a long (foot long) handle with a razor
blade on one end. A razor blade can be used to remove just about
anything from the sides of a tank. However, razor blades CAN scratch
glass, if one is not careful.
So-called ``magnet cleaners'' can also be helpful for removing algae. A
scraping block on the inside of the tank is held in place by a magnet
held on the outside of the tank. Moving the outside magnet moves the
scraping block, removing algae without having to plunge your entire arm in
the tank. The best magnet cleaners are those with a strong
magnetic field (e.g., larger magnets), and they work best on smaller
tanks, which have thinner glass.
A toothbrush is one of the most effective tools for removing algae
from the inside of plastic tubing.
You will need at least one bucket for adding and removing water from
your tank. Use the largest bucket you can comfortably work with
(e.g., up to 5 gallons). Use it only for your aquarium and don't ever
put any chemicals in it.
You will need at least one fish net, and having two is better;
catching fish is easier if you use one net to chase fish into the
other. Nets with a fine mesh are harder to use because of their high
water resistance. The right net size will of course depend on the
size of your fish.
Note: netting fish is stressful. In particular, the fish net scrapes
off some of a fish's protective slime coating. If possible, when
catching fish, use a net to chase the fish into a small plastic or
glass jar.
You will probably want to buy some test kits for measuring things like
ammonia concentrations. Because there are so many kits,
recommendations as to which to buy are
given in a separate TEST KIT SECTION of this
FAQ.
 Finding a Good
Fish Store
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